I read many esteemed colleagues discussing the significant ongoing evolution which is currently underway in travel retail towards premium offerings in F&B. Across the industry, we are seeing the arrival of innovative dining concepts, renowned names, and collaborations with high-profile chefs. All these efforts share the same goal: to deliver a higher-quality, more engaging experience for consumers.
This is good for our customers and good for our business, of course. But unfortunately, not all that glitters is gold.
The Contradiction of the Current Model
Behind these attractive initiatives lies a complex reality: the management of these concepts lies almost exclusively in the hands of large F&B operators. This is not a criticism – these major players deserve great respect for their relentless dedication in ensuring efficient service across countless dining outlets in challenging environments such as airports. However, this is where the contradiction becomes apparent – at their heart, all of these operations are the same.
With its dedication to delivering uniform and premium experiences, in terms of both quality and service, the current model makes it unsustainable for individual brands to independently manage high-end concepts. The economic conditions imposed often favour only those who can achieve economies of scale through centralised, multi-format operations – an advantage only the largest operators possess.
With its dedication to delivering uniform and premium experiences, in terms of both quality and service, the current model makes it unsustainable for individual brands to independently manage high-end concepts
A premium experience cannot exist without the authenticity and attention to detail that only direct brand management can provide. I’ve previously written about this in the context of luxury fashion retail: when impeccable customer service and authentic brand experience are required, it is essential for the brand to retain control over every aspect of its offering.
The same applies to F&B. A fine dining concept or a signature culinary experience cannot be effectively replicated by those accustomed to managing fast food or quick-service formats. No matter how much effort or professionalism is invested, the absence of a direct connection to the brand’s DNA inevitably results in a diminished experience. And this directly impacts the customer, who, after an initial disappointment, is unlikely to return.
This contradiction, subtle yet often ignored, has deep roots. The current structure of travel retail, with its economic and operational dynamics, appears to favour a model that sacrifices authenticity in favour of economic sustainability. This presents a significant challenge: how can we deliver excellence without compromising the system’s financial equilibrium?
A fine dining concept or a signature culinary experience cannot be effectively replicated by those accustomed to managing fast food or quick-service formats
As things stand, travel retail leaves little room for alternative models. Opening a viable operation is possible only for those who can dilute costs through economies of scale and large-scale operational synergies. This inevitably restricts access to brands capable of offering authentic and unique experiences, ultimately impoverishing the overall offering.
The Path to Change
Overcoming this impasse requires a fundamental rethink. Airports, operators, and brands must find a new balance that allows for greater diversity in offerings and supports direct brand management where necessary. Only then can we truly meet the expectations of an increasingly discerning and informed customer.
If this forward step is not taken, perhaps it is better to take a step back and return to simpler but more honest propositions. After all, a sincere “Rustichella” is preferable to a disappointing experience masquerading as excellence.
The future of F&B in travel retail depends on our ability to acknowledge these dynamics and address them pragmatically. Only then can we transform the ambition for excellence into a tangible, sustainable reality.